Linx Temperature Controlled Ballast 600w
- Multi linkable digital ballast
- High PAR levels
- 0.10v digital wattage adjustment
- Parlux Master Controller ready
- Soft start technology
- Compatible with 600W High Pressure Sodium (HPS) or Metal Halide (MH) lamps
- Silent, compact and lightweight
Get greenhouse tech for a grow room price – grab this ballast. It connects to a Parlux Master Controller for premium lighting & temperature control.
When connected, you can dim ballasts from 250W-660W in 2W increments (like in greenhouses!).
There’s no costly fixture needed to connect – ballasts work with: any 600W HPS lamp & reflector.
- Greenhouse tech: 2W increment dimming (connected to Parlux Master Controller)
- Cost saving: works with any 600W HPS, MH & Dual Spectrum lamp + reflector
- 2W increment dimming (connected to Parlux controller) or dimming dial (no controller)
- Link cable included: for multi-linking ballasts to Parlux Controller
You’ll really save energy! As a digital ballast it uses 3-4% less energy per ballast.
Dealing with temperatures
It can catch even the best grower off guard. Whether you grow indoors or outdoors, a sudden rise in ambient temperatures due to a heat wave or just regular seasonal variations can put a lot of additional stress on your plants. So what’s a grower to do? Fortunately, there are a whole host of strategies—some more obvious than others!
First, regarding this magic number: 77°F (25°C). Keep this in mind as you read on. Even tropical plants thrive around this temperature, providing relative humidity is around 50%-60%. In fact, this temperature is damn near perfect for most plants.
So why are so many growers’ gardens running at higher temperatures if this ultimately means less photosynthesis and reduced metabolic rates, elongated growth patterns (making plants more difficult to illuminate with grow lights) and lower quality product overall?
The answer is often-too many grow lights, not enough ventilation and cooling! New indoor gardeners often underestimate just how much fresh air their plants need, both for continual access to carbon dioxide and for temperature and humidity regulation.
But first, let’s look at the common sources of heat problems in the indoor garden-starting with the one we just mentioned, the number one culprit of heat problems indoors!
Heat Source 1: Grow Lights
The best way to combat high temperatures in your grow room is at their source. High-intensity discharge (HID) grow lights are the main cause of temperature problems in indoor gardens. A 1000W HID generates nearly 4000 BTUs of heat per hour. Common sense or, if you prefer, the laws of thermal dynamics, dictate that temperatures will steadily rise in your indoor garden unless you do something with this heat (i.e. vent heat-charged air out the garden or counteract the heat with air conditioning.)
Perhaps the most straightforward technique of minimizing the inevitable heating effect caused by high-intensity discharge horticultural lighting is to house the lamp itself in an air-cooled reflector. Ideally, you should duct the coolest air you can into the reflector and vent it away directly out of your room via insulated ducting for minimal thermal return. Whichever route you choose, remember the air you use to cool your grow lights needs to be room temperature or less.
Heat Source 2: Ambient Temperatures Outdoors
You can mitigate the effects of higher temperatures outdoors by running your grow lights at night-often electricity is cheaper at this time too. Whether you run your lights during the day or night, try to avoid positioning your garden in a room with poorly insulated, sun-facing walls. The extra heat generated by the sun’s rays beating on exterior walls and roofs will only make environmental control more difficult and energy intensive in the long run. Many growers report their best results from grow rooms located in basements due to the natural insulating properties of the earth, although extra care has to be taken to deal with humidity in subterranean environments. Remember-it’s best to draw air from a cool shady location, whether indoors (better) or outdoors.
Heat Source 3: Ballast Location
If possible, try to house your ballasts next door to your grow room, not inside it. Not only do you offer more protection from accidental splashes, but ballasts also generate a significant amount of heat-both magnetic ‘core and coil’ and electronic/digital models. Remember, ballasts must not overheat so do not enclose them in an unventilated cupboard-they need some ventilation too!
Heat Source 4: Dehumidifiers, CO2 generators, Pumps and You!
Remember, all the electrical equipment in your indoor garden contributes. Even if you are doing some light-work in your garden (such as repotting) your body can produce upwards of 500 BTUs per hour! A CO2 generator providing CO2 for a 20′ x 20′ room will produce upwards of 7500 BTUs per hour (equivalent to an additional 1000W light and ballast in your garden!)
Some Great Strategies for Combating Excessive Heat in your Indoor Garden
1) Reduce Nutrient Concentration
Highly recommended for hydroponic growers! This is a tried and tested commercial technique. In hot conditions, your plants are transpiring more moisture than normal. This means that your plants are using higher water: nutrient ratio. The net effect is a concentration of your nutrient solution which then places cumulative stresses on your plants. Try reducing the concentration of your nutrient solution by 25%. (E.g. If you are running an E.C. of 2.0 (~1400 PPM) try reducing it to 1.5 (~1050 PPM) in hot conditions.)
2) Temporarily raise your Grow Lights
By positioning your grow lights further away from your plants, (an additional 6 – 12 inches) the canopy will be exposed to less radiant heat emitted from the lamp. Of course, if your grow lights are too far from your plants for a prolonged period of time your plants will inevitably begin to stretch in reaction to insufficient light levels, but this is a good strategy for a heat wave lasting just a few days.
3) Dim your Grow Lights
Some models of electronic ballasts now carry a dimming or dial-a-watt feature affording growers the option of running their HID grow lights at 75% or 50% full power and thus, producing less heat. Growers should note that the spectral distribution of some lamps can change in dimming mode (i.e. some parts of the spectrum dim more than others.)
4) Power Down!
It’s much, much more preferable to simulate a cloudy, overcast day than a scorched desert. Don’t be afraid to switch off half of your grow lights for a few days during a heat wave.
5) Add Air Conditioning
An A/C unit is the ultimate way to control temperatures in your indoor garden. Reasonably priced, portable, self-install units are available.
6) Keep Your Roots Cool
The optimum temperature for active metabolism in most plants’ root zones is around 64-68°F (18-20°C). Ensure that your water or nutrient solution is at this temperature too. If using tap water, be sure to add just enough from the warm tap so that the water feels tepid-not warm, not cold, just silky to the touch. Better yet, invest in a nutrient thermometer or a thermostatically controlled nutrient heater.
“I just received the pair and put them to work already now for 2 days, I gave 5 Stars because really this product looks high quality and looks really good, this is my third brand, first two failed I hope this one will do better, for now I really recommend this product also it’s a lower price than other brands but again for now it’s well worth it.”
“Arrived safe and good delivery time. Have yet to use, looks promising though. Excited! Will update once up & running. Thanks to all.”
“Great ballast, does what it’s suppose to but it already went out on me. Happy with product fast delivery.”