Bloom Room Flexi-Rez
- Available in various sizes
- Can prevent leaks in your grow room
- Can catch any run off from pots
- Has a tap for easy drainage
- Can be used in a custom made system
- Fits through small spaces
- Easy to assemble
- Can be easily stored away
Introducing the new Bloom Room Flexi-Rez catchment trays. For ease of storage and transport they come flat packed and are very easy to install. If you want an insurance policy for your irrigation system then this product is for you. They are also superb for the home growing enthusiast who may have limited access to their grow room. They’ve been designed to fit where previously trays of this size have not been able to, which is great for getting them through tight spaces.
Flexible fabric hydroponic reservoirs have taken over from the old hard plastic type in the last couple of years. They’re ridiculously tough, yet because they fold up into a fraction of their size they’re super easy to transport and then get into awkward places. They also take up hardly any storage space when they’re not in use.
Available in various sizes
95cm x 95cm x 20cm
115cm x 115cm x 20cm
195cm x 95cm x 20cm
290cm x 290cm x 20cm
Choosing the size of your nutrient reservoir
It can be easy for hydroponic beginners to underestimate the size of reservoir needed to raise plants to maturity. Plants need increasingly more nutrient as they grow from seedlings into large, healthy specimens. However, an educated guess can be made based on anticipated gallons consumed per plant at maturity, and the reservoir can then be sized accordingly.
A good general rule is that each large plant, like a tomato, will require three gallons of water volume. For a medium sized plant, that drops to one-and-a-half gallons, and a small plant will require a half- gallon or so. Be generous if possible. For example, if you are planning to maintain four large, four medium sized, and four small plants, your reservoir should hold at least 20 gallons to accommodate their needs.
As a cushion, doubling that capacity to 40 gallons isn’t too generous. In this instance, more is better. A big fudge factor has built-in growth potential for more plants, and can sometimes save you the chore of adding nutrient as often—features you’ll likely appreciate in the months and years to come.
If your setup can backfill into your reservoir during a power or other failure, make sure the tank is large enough to contain the volume of nutrient/water running through your entire system. Don’t rely on a 40-gallon reservoir to hold 45 gallons in an emergency. If you do, you’ll be disappointed, and probably spend hours mopping up the mess.
Location of your nutrient reservoir
If the design of your system doesn’t require a specific tank placement, the first inclination is to place the reservoir as close to the action as possible, but that’s not always the best choice. Where you put your reservoir can have an impact on how maintenance-intensive or headache-free its operations are. Once in place, the reservoir and its pipes, snaking hoses and accessories can be difficult to dismantle and move, so a little forethought is worth the effort.
Here are a few examples: If the reservoir is too close to your hot lights, then temperature fluctuations and algae can quickly become maintenance issues. The former may require the addition of an expensive chiller, while the latter can cause blockages and other headaches. Hotter water can hold less dissolved oxygen, too. If the reservoir is too far from a water source or drain, you may find yourself in the unenviable position of having to drag hoses or carry buckets around on a regular basis.
If the reservoir is placed too close to an uninsulated wall or concrete floor where temperatures plummet in winter, your mixture may fall below the optimum temperature range between 68 and 72°F and require the addition of a dedicated immersible or aquarium-style heater.
Also, if you’re planning to add automation equipment, easy access to adequate electrical service is important, too. Adequate is important because a single circuit, often spread over a number of outlets, can only take so much current before flipping a breaker or blowing a fuse. Note: Check your electrical box. For quick reference, a 15A circuit can handle up to 1,800W, and a 20A circuit can handle 2,400W.
You may be familiar with the manual testing tools you’ll need to maintain viable nutrient in your reservoir, including meters that test for temperature, pH and TDS/PPM EC. If your system isn’t automated, no meter or tool can earn its keep if you don’t use it regularly. To this end, multi-function or three-(four, five, or six)-in-one tools are widely considered the way to go. They save time and effort, and may even store previous readings for easy review and notation later. If possible, look for equipment that can be calibrated manually. This helps keep tools accurate over time and reduces the chance of equipment or operator error.
Dissolved oxygen in water is important for plant health. One way to achieve this in a nutrient tank is to continuously aerate the mixture. In recent years, the advantages of making adequate and even extra oxygen available to plant roots has been brought into sharper focus through the growing popularity of aeroponic technologies.
Good aeration promotes nutrient uptake, sometimes dramatically, and aids in the growth of beneficial organisms. It also discourages the development of pathogens in the form of anaerobic bacteria. Adding one or more air stones or other bubble-producing devices to your nutrient tank is a form of extra insurance against shortfalls. Another benefit to amping up the oxygen content of your mixture is that aeration keeps the liquid in motion and blended. It also helps maintain a consistent temperature and discourages algae growth.
Topping off your nutrient reservoir
After you brush up on your chemistry, start blending nutrient and additives and combine them with prepared water. Wait, test, wait, test, and get your system up and running slowly—either again or for the very first time. It won’t take long to notice the nutrient level in the tank dropping as the system stabilizes and plants take up water and transpire water vapor through their leaves. There will also be moisture loss due to evaporation. More water is consumed or lost than nutrient, though, so water should be added back until you decide the remaining nutrient concentration is too low and should be augmented, or is just unreliable and should be replaced.
Make a note of the high-water mark in your tank, and check the level daily. Refill to that mark when topping off is necessary. You’ll typically top off every few days depending on your setup, the type of plants you’re growing and the temperature or time of year. Record how much water you’re adding during each top-off session. This may help you determine when a change-out is due.
Some growers like having a second tank or barrel of prepared water on hand. This can save time and reduce the risk of plant shock from tap, well or other untreated water.
How often should you check and test your reservoir and the liquid gold it contains? Most experts recommend morning or at least daily checks as a minimum standard. Twice daily isn’t too often, especially if you’ve made some changes recently, like starting a new crop, making a shift to blooming or fruiting, or using a new nutrient blend. Equipment upgrades or changes call for closer monitoring, too.
A clean reservoir signals a well-maintained system. Keep a tight lid on your nutrient tank to control algae growth and reduce the risk of particulate matter like dust, dirt, and leaves entering the system from above. A tight-fitting lid also limits moisture loss through evaporation. Add strainer socks or bags to keep debris from entering the tank through drain pipes.
After a weekly or periodic flushing, wipe down the tank with a safe cleaning solution like hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) or bleach, and check the fittings. This is also a good time to clean the filters, scrub the air stones, rinse any dirty strainer bags, and perform other housekeeping tasks.
Century Growsystems ongoing product development program ensures our product range is constantly being updated and improved, a key feature of Century Growsystems success and strategic growth over the last 16 years.
Century Growsystems work in partnership with the worlds largest brands and leading component manufacturers such as Venture Lighting, Panasonic, Atami, Tornado, Bloomroom and Buddhas Tree to exceed the quality and safety expectations of our customers.
Please do not hesitate to contact a member of our team if you require any further information about any of our products.